Sunday, December 16, 2007

SF: I've Got to Admit It's Getting Better… But Is It Enough?

The always-smart John King has an article in today's SF Chronicle about the changes taking place in Golden Gate Park, with new, challenging architecture and a revamped landscape, and he rightfully lauds the architects and planners for creating an "innovative" public space:
The Music Concourse district also demonstrates what San Francisco should be - a city open to new ideas even as it protects what's of value from our past.

The de Young Museum is a near-masterpiece of a building that's both surprising and oddly site-appropriate, and the new Academy promises to be a fascinating interpretation of "green" architecture. It's an inspiring spot, and it got me thinking: San Francisco has had more than a few of these good things come to fruition in the past couple of years. Octavia Boulevard, despite its flaws (why did we need the elevated freeway to go all the way to Market street?) has allowed a neighborhood previously strangled by on-ramps to flower, and it will only get better as (hopefully) interesting architecture fills the newly created vacant lots. SOMA is exploding with high-rises, and again, while most are part of block-wide mega-projects and decidedly out of touch with the mottled, Jane Jacobsian approach that creates truly livable neighborhoods, it's a damn sight better than parking lots, and the Rincon Hill plans that include a newly two-way Folsom Street look fantastic. New architecture is breaking with SF's usual aesthetic conservatism, especially in SOMA, with examples like the crazy new Federal Building and the more subtle but perhaps more successful Plaza Apartments filling in the blank spaces in the neighborhood. Don't forget changes from the last few years like BART to the airport and the new neighborhood sprouting up around the ballpark. These are all great moves, executed well (if not exactly perfectly), but is it all enough?

I hate to be a Euro-snob, but having just returned from a trip across the continent where I saw all different cities and their approaches to urban planning, transit, and architecture, it's hard not to get the feeling that San Francisco can never be as truly livable as even 3rd-tier European hubs like Warsaw or Munich. Take Warsaw for example. With barely a rudimentary knowledge of the language and a vague sense of the city's layout, I was able to buy a week-long tourist pass and figure out the transit system in a snap. Trams go in pretty straight lines, they're fast and plentiful, the routes are clearly marked and not shared with cars, it's all on the honor system, lots of trams even have cool LED sign thingies (see photo at left) that show you the upcoming stops. Contrast this with our recent experience with DJ Moule and DJ Zebra when they came over to DJ. They stayed with me and on their free day we wandered around the city; at one point we were downtown at the cable car turnaround on Powell and Moule wanted to go to Amoeba in the Haight. Easy: the N-Judah goes right there. We go down into the Powell Street station, I go up to a machine to get change for the Muni, and when I turn around I see Moule and Zebra, wide-eyed, wrestling with a BART ticket machine, trying to put their money in the ticket slot. And these are guys who are familiar with complex public transit systems! But think about the complexity of what we were about to do: use the BART machine to get $1.50 in quarters, but don't actually get on BART, go to the Muni entrance (if you can tell the difference), put the quarters in the turnstile, but then don't forget to take your ticket when it pops out since the damn trains become "proof of payment" after they leave the subway, then go down into the station and go to the far 20% of the platform that will actually be in front of a tiny 2-car tram, and then wait for an "N" to show up, which you can hopefully squeeze onto. It will glide happily through the tunnel until it lurches and stops, and then inches cautiously up out of the tunnel on a goofy ramp, then the driver hops out at Church Street and who knows, gets a coffee or something, and after he comes back and starts it back up, you rumble along at about 3 miles an hour, as cars dart out in front. It's like this was planned by a sadistic madman, it takes 20 or 30 minutes, and we were basically going to places almost adjacent to the line.

Now that the truncated and basically useless Central Subway plan looks like a go, one shudders to see the ways Muni will fuck this up: one potential plan (picture at right) has a northbound line running under 3rd Street and a southbound line under 4th Street, both of them featuring more awesome ramps to the surface around Townsend that you know will run about the same speed as the one behind Safeway. Another plan has the trains making a 90-degree turn from 3rd to Market and then a 135-degree turn to head up Stockton. Again, why build the damn thing if you're going to strangle it with poor planning? Even in the best case, it will only go from mid-Chinatown to the ballpark.

Further down the road (and probably less likely at all) is the California high-speed rail plan, with a fancy new station planned for the currently hellish Transbay Terminal bus depot at 1st & Mission. Even if this gets built, and even if they do spend the zillions of dollars to tunnel from the current Caltrain station to this new position, it's a full-size SOMA block to Market street! It doesn't even connect directly with BART or Muni!!! Did anybody think, "Hey, if we're going to spend 100 bil on this thing maybe we could tunnel the extra block to make the damn thing actually usable?"

The video is pretty cool though:


I have theories about why San Francisco has so many built-in flaws in its urban structure, and continues to make the same mistakes: the dominance of the Democratic party machine has created a corrupt one-party system, for instance, without a credible opposition to spur real action. That's just an idea. But either way, even when San Francisco dreams big, like with the new rail station, it dreams wrong, and in denial about the massive flaws in the plans, that, like the clusterfuck at Church and Duboce, will crush the souls of hapless commuters for years to come. Will San Francisco ever see itself with enough clarity to make the changes necessary to become a truly world-class city, or will its problems (traffic, lack of housing, etc) ever become so grindingly awful that they force a wake-up call? It's hard to see it happening in my lifetime.

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